Forgotten
heroes
John
Davoren (1915 -1991) was one of Australia's most innovative
makers of red wine. A master blender he was the creator of
Penfold's St Henri Claret. Born into a winemaking family,
throughout his life he was closely associated with Penfolds,
his father being manager of their Dalwood property. John
worked at Dalwood, Griffith and then Minchinbury. He
was manager of the Auldana Cellars, Magill 1947-1973.
In
the early 1950s he developed a lighter, stalky, unwooded red, St
Henri claret, in
complete contrast to the huge, heavily oaked wine Max Schubert
(see OzWater) was developing for his Grange Hermitage. A triumph
of the blenderÅfs art, St Henri has nevertheless been described
as "the poor manÅfs Grange". The original grapes came from
the cool climate of Paracombe in the Adelaide Hills, resulting
in a more elegant and lighter bodied wine.
Jack
Kilgour was one of South AustraliaÅfs best-known technical winemen.
A graduate of Roseworthy Agricultural College he first joined
Stonyfell winery in 1932. There he spent 27 years as a winemaker,
specializing in fortified wines, most notably the 1945 Stonyfell
vintage port. In 1959 he left to manage Tatachilla winery,
followed by periods as manager of the Emu Wine Co. and Southern
Vales Co-op., ending his working life as senior winemaker for
Thomas Hardy. A judge of the Adelaide Wine Show 1961-1970,
he recommended the introduction of varietal classes.
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